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Sticker with "110V" on it...

  • eatatjoes10 Friday, March 28, 2014 3:03 AM Reply
    Hi desolder,
    see my first post:
    "The 84 LEDs are connected 42s2p (42 in series, two lines parallel), and the voltage to the lines is ~130V, should be ok for the 3528 (2,9-3V per LED, 42x3V =126V)."

    ;-)
    Picture also edited, link to pic is updated
    experienced toddler
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    post edited by eatatjoes10 on 3/28/2014 at 3:29 AM
  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Friday, March 28, 2014 5:01 AM Reply
    Doh... missed that :)

    Just a rough back of the napkin type calculation, you're probably looking at using a smaller, ~1uF or less capacitor in place of the big 3.4uF cap in order to adapt this to 220V. Another option might be to keep the existing capacitor and rewire the LED into an 84 series configuration. Let's see what ebpDoug's simulations come up with.

    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

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  • eatatjoes10 Friday, March 28, 2014 5:30 AM Reply
    Hi desolder,
    when I first tested the lamp, I also thought about rewiring the LEDs. It would be ok for me, but the lamp is for a friend. He wants to order many more LED lamps, and so we had 6 different samples for testing, and two of them are simply the wrong voltage for germany.
    Anyway: 23 LEDs in one of the lines where killed, so it's not worth the efford...

    Right now I have an argument with DX: they don't want to refund me. They offered $10 for wrong descibed items, that cost me $30, else I should "send them back". That's a new experience for me, RMAs were allways uncomplicated until today...
    We'll see what ebpDoug's says about that circuit, maybe it's simply bad luck?
    experienced toddler
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  • eatatjoes10 Saturday, March 29, 2014 5:23 AM Reply
    Wow,
    "they" sommetimes drive me crazy:
    the LED board is labeled with "+" and "-", but the LEDs are soldered in the opposite direction... damn.
    Looking at my circuit, I thought something must be wrong, the polarity of + and - seemed to be wrong, and now I know, it was wrong.
    I corrected the circuit, the link to the Flickr-pic is also edited.

    03.30.2014: edited again, missed a connection, hope the circuit is ok now.
    experienced toddler
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    post edited by eatatjoes10 on 3/31/2014 at 2:01 AM
  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Tuesday, April 1, 2014 12:29 AM Reply
    LOL I just mentioned this in another thread, where I stated that "usually" the polarity markings on the PCB/MCPCB are correct, but I've seen examples where it wasn't.
    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

    Posts(7073) | Reviews | Tip post

  • eatatjoes10 Sunday, June 1, 2014 1:48 AM Reply
    The conversion to 230V (german mains) was successful.
    I used this online java-applet to find the values:
    http://www.falstad.com/circuit/index.html

    The 3400uF has to be changed to 1300uF (400V), the parallel 47k resistor has to be changed to two paralleled 270k 1/4W (or 1x 270k/0,5W).
    One problem is the 1300uF, as there is not such a thing. I had to solder 1nF + 3x 0,1nF parallel, looks terrible.
    The bigger problem was to replace the 32 (!) burned LEDs...

    The current to the board now is ~45mA (remember: two parallel lines!), voltage ~128V, so it's ~5,8W. My meter is not able to do "TrueRMS", but the temperature of the LEDs now is below 60° C.
    Btw.: the applet also shows, that the original circuit works perfect for 110V...

    edit:
    sorry, I mixed "nF" and "uF" (microFarad). I corrected the dimensions...
    experienced toddler
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    post edited by eatatjoes10 on 6/6/2014 at 2:31 AM
  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, June 1, 2014 1:17 PM Reply
    Nice job! I would have given up after 32 LEDs burned up.

    That circuit simulator is VERY nice! Thanks for the link. I might have use for it in the future.
    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

    Posts(7073) | Reviews | Tip post

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