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Heatsinking issues = Not a reliable flashlight

  • Lumenator Saturday, January 26, 2013 11:58 AM Reply
    I own the flashlight longer than 150 days and now I realised that the driver shuts down after a while. That makes it impossible to use this peace of junk. I am a hunter and need a good and RELIABLE flashlight which this is NOT.
    I tried to optimize the heatsinking but there is no way to improve that mistake. I don't need it every day. Only once in a while. Now DX wants to have it shipped on my expenses to forward it to the supplier to repair it on my expenses.

    What I need is a new driver. Which one is good? I don´t want to buy a drop in which is very expensive. The heatsinking is still crap, even with a new drop in which costs you 2/3 of the flashlight.
    The main problem is that DX does not understand the informations coming from thousand of post to
    There is no driver (that I could find) that has one mode and enough power for that thing in 20mm in diameter.

    Why does DX sell this crap? How hard can it be to provide PROPER HEATSINKING?

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    post edited by Lumenator on 1/26/2013 at 11:59 AM
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Saturday, January 26, 2013 12:13 PM Reply
    Which batteries are you using? Some protected batteries will cut off under high drain loads. Do you have access to non protected batteries that you can try? Just make sure they all equally charged, before you try them.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
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  • cyclist Moderator Saturday, January 26, 2013 12:27 PM Reply
    Its sold out, nobody can buy it.
    Its the manufacturers that decide what modes they have, not DX, they're just a shop.

    As above though, it sound more like the battery's cutting out and nothing to do with the driver.
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  • Lumenator Saturday, January 26, 2013 2:33 PM Reply
    That was one of my thought, too.
    I ordered stronger, whatever this means, when you just read values written on them, batteries.

    I have these batteries: sku.5790
    Now I ordered those: sku.120476

    Let us just wait what they are willing to do.....

    Besides that.... In flashlight sku.120679 the old cells work like HELL! They are best. 2h of BRUTAL light without any cut offs. No flickering. Nothing. Just brilliant. Extremely HOTTTTT but bright.

    I don´t know how these batteries can cause cut offs when they are fine in a drawing flashlight like the one above.


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  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Saturday, January 26, 2013 2:51 PM Reply
    There is a big difference between those 2 lights. sku.120679 batteries are run in parallel, and your other light is in series.

    Lights with parallel batteries will provide more mAh, but with the same voltage as 1 cell.

    Lights that are in series will increase the voltage with each cell added, but not the mAh.

    Your problem is probably the batteries, and the new cells may not fix it. Sheepish ( one of our resident flashlight gurus)Would definitely recommend Sanyo batteries,but I don't think he's here now.

    I'll ask @cyclist and @desolder what they recommend.

    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
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    post edited by gasbag11 on 1/26/2013 at 2:53 PM
  • Lumenator Sunday, January 27, 2013 1:40 AM Reply
    Thanks gasbag.
    Now that I know that some of the brains recommend Sanyo I´d like to know which.

    1. Sanyo wannabes sku.134898 => Cheap but no sign of Sanyo.
    2. Sanyo Genuine sku.134945 => Sound better, but are they?
    3. Sanyo Genuines sku.144925 => I hope not them... Too expensive.
    4. sku.121447 => still a bit pricey...
    5. sku.121445 => doesn`t they look good? I'd rather try them.

    Or which do you know are any good? I also own these Panasonic/3100mAh sku.121452 but I don not know if they are telling the truth.

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  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, January 27, 2013 6:58 AM Reply
    @Lumenator; Do you realize that the first 2 sku#s were AA batteries? Anyway,with sheepish's strong urging, I recently bought 8 sanyo 2600 protected sku.121447. He said they won't cut off under a heavy load like the trustfires and other cells do. Those cheaper sanyos are probably not protected and I wouldn't use them.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
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  • Lumenator Sunday, January 27, 2013 10:57 AM Reply
    Well, no I didn`t realise that...

    But anyways, the ones you recommended are reduced in price... *sigh*

    Think they are to be tested... lets see what they will deliver.

    Thanks for your help. I´ll keep you informed.

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  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, January 27, 2013 11:58 AM Reply
    I would like to hear if it solves your problem. Good luck! :)
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
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  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Monday, January 28, 2013 11:10 AM Reply
    The fundamental problem with this light is that the pill/dropin is not screwed into the aluminum body, so heatsinking is very poor. Other users are also reporting that this light overheats quickly, causing the driver to cut off. This light isn't intended for long duration lighting. You could try wrapping the dropin with aluminum foil in order to make better thermal contact with the body. That might help some.

    A better alternative is the Fandyfire STL-V2, which DOES use a pill screwed into the body, and has much better heatsinking.
    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

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