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Stopped working properly!

  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 10:48 AM Reply
    After 3 weeks, it started flickering. now it just sits constantly at MUCH lower brightness across all 3 modes. Seems power is now cut to about 20% or so. Useless.

    I removed the tailcap, and closed the circuit with a paperclip (battery to bofy) and it works perfectly, so I know the issue is the tailcap.

    Anyone know how to fix? I put a voltmeter to the cap (spring to thread) and in the 'closed' position ('on'), there appears to be too much resistance compared to my other caps...
  • posner Sunday, February 24, 2013 10:50 AM Reply
    I'd ask @gasbag11
    ¯\_(?)_/¯
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:19 AM Reply
    I'm not the one for this. All. I can suggest, is see if the switch can be tightened. If that's not the problem, than it's best to call @sheepish.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:25 AM Reply
    Thanks guys.

    I looked at the tailcap, and it seems to me there is some sort of white resin at the bottom (inside), so i see no way of untwisting the internal tailcap mechanism. On other lights I own, this is possible by simply putting pliers into the two internal pin holes, and twisting/unscrewing it out.

    Any ideas appreciated, I would really like to get the internal clicky out of the tailcap to analyze closely for a fix.
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:43 AM Reply
    The last time I tried to repair a tailcap switch, the whole light ended up in the trash. I was able to "fix" a few older lights with switch problems, by pressing really hard on the switch several times, but when I tried it on that one I mentioned, it quit working entirely.

    In case sheepish isn't around, I'll see if @cyclist or @desolder can help.

    Did you read the sticky in the flashlight forum for flashlight fixes?
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:51 AM Reply
    Yessir, read the helpful stickies! No mention of this 'special' type of tailcap assembly. Why the resin, no idea! Seems I may not be able to get to the innards of the tailcap on ths one.
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 12:14 PM Reply
    It's possible that it might be glued in. I read somewhere that it's possible to heat the tailcap to loosen the glue, but you'd have to be careful not to get it too hot. Maybe a hairdryer up close for a little bit?

    First I'd wait to see if one of the people I called answers.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
  • sheepish Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 2:45 PM Reply
    I would have suggested tightening the switch and reading the sticky... so gasbag11 is more help than I am (because he answered sooner). Can you post a photo?
    DX logs its customers out after 24 hours.
    If you are on DX at the same time each day, you will even be
    logged out in the middle of typing a post or placing an order.
    DX is run by idiots.

  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 5:06 PM Reply
    OK, just today it stopped working altogether. I measured the switch with voltmeter in 'closed' (ON) position and I am getting a lot of resistance... 774 ohm I think? In any case, certainly NOT continuity at all. The switch is toast?!

    Here is a picture of the inside, detailing what I describe as a 'rubber' filling of sorts?


    http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x103/guilleshop/random%20stuff/photo96.jpg
    img src: http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x103/guilleshop/random%20stuff/photo96.jpg

  • sheepish Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 6:04 PM Reply
    Central brass contact, white plastic surround, then rubber outside that? Not just a thin layer of heatsink paste? It's normally metal to help get a good contact to the shell.
    DX logs its customers out after 24 hours.
    If you are on DX at the same time each day, you will even be
    logged out in the middle of typing a post or placing an order.
    DX is run by idiots.

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