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Stopped working properly!

  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 10:48 AM Reply
    After 3 weeks, it started flickering. now it just sits constantly at MUCH lower brightness across all 3 modes. Seems power is now cut to about 20% or so. Useless.

    I removed the tailcap, and closed the circuit with a paperclip (battery to bofy) and it works perfectly, so I know the issue is the tailcap.

    Anyone know how to fix? I put a voltmeter to the cap (spring to thread) and in the 'closed' position ('on'), there appears to be too much resistance compared to my other caps...
  • posner Sunday, February 24, 2013 10:50 AM Reply
    I'd ask @gasbag11
    ¯\_(?)_/¯
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:19 AM Reply
    I'm not the one for this. All. I can suggest, is see if the switch can be tightened. If that's not the problem, than it's best to call @sheepish.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
    Geezer Division
  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:25 AM Reply
    Thanks guys.

    I looked at the tailcap, and it seems to me there is some sort of white resin at the bottom (inside), so i see no way of untwisting the internal tailcap mechanism. On other lights I own, this is possible by simply putting pliers into the two internal pin holes, and twisting/unscrewing it out.

    Any ideas appreciated, I would really like to get the internal clicky out of the tailcap to analyze closely for a fix.
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:43 AM Reply
    The last time I tried to repair a tailcap switch, the whole light ended up in the trash. I was able to "fix" a few older lights with switch problems, by pressing really hard on the switch several times, but when I tried it on that one I mentioned, it quit working entirely.

    In case sheepish isn't around, I'll see if @cyclist or @desolder can help.

    Did you read the sticky in the flashlight forum for flashlight fixes?
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
    Geezer Division
  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 11:51 AM Reply
    Yessir, read the helpful stickies! No mention of this 'special' type of tailcap assembly. Why the resin, no idea! Seems I may not be able to get to the innards of the tailcap on ths one.
  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 12:14 PM Reply
    It's possible that it might be glued in. I read somewhere that it's possible to heat the tailcap to loosen the glue, but you'd have to be careful not to get it too hot. Maybe a hairdryer up close for a little bit?

    First I'd wait to see if one of the people I called answers.
    CEO: Flashlight Nutters Anonymous
    Geezer Division
  • sheepish Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 2:45 PM Reply
    I would have suggested tightening the switch and reading the sticky... so gasbag11 is more help than I am (because he answered sooner). Can you post a photo?
    I am on strike again. DX, you can thank staff member jason_liu for it.
    Fix your Cash Back process; threadid.1270637.
    (The last strike thread was threadid.1308471.)
  • gnolivos Sunday, February 24, 2013 5:06 PM Reply
    OK, just today it stopped working altogether. I measured the switch with voltmeter in 'closed' (ON) position and I am getting a lot of resistance... 774 ohm I think? In any case, certainly NOT continuity at all. The switch is toast?!

    Here is a picture of the inside, detailing what I describe as a 'rubber' filling of sorts?


    http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x103/guilleshop/random%20stuff/photo96.jpg
    img src: http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x103/guilleshop/random%20stuff/photo96.jpg

  • sheepish Top 10 Forum Poster Sunday, February 24, 2013 6:04 PM Reply
    Central brass contact, white plastic surround, then rubber outside that? Not just a thin layer of heatsink paste? It's normally metal to help get a good contact to the shell.
    I am on strike again. DX, you can thank staff member jason_liu for it.
    Fix your Cash Back process; threadid.1270637.
    (The last strike thread was threadid.1308471.)
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