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Sticker with "110V" on it...

  • eatatjoes10 Wednesday, March 5, 2014 4:21 AM Reply
    Hi folks,
    I received one of these today, and there is a sticker on it: "110V".
    Here in germany we have 230V, so I checked it: it works!

    The 30 LEDs are connected in series, and the voltage to the lines is ~95V, should be ok for the 5050 (2,9-3V per LED, 30x3V =90V). But if one of the LEDs burns out, it will "kill" the lamp.
    There is no switching power supply in it, but a board with some diodes, some resistors, a cap and an inductance (I guess), never saw that before. But it works for 230V.

    My power meter shows me 18W power consumption, very strange for 5,4W of LED power...
    (30x0,06Ax3V=5,4W)
    I also have a sku.35829 (real driver inside), only showing 6W consumption, same color, still working perfect after 2 years heavy use. And it's less expensive.

    Btw.: this a "cold white" light, just like in the picture. I like it, but I'd prefer sku.35829.
    experienced toddler
    Posts(207) | Reviews | Tip post

  • eatatjoes10 Tuesday, March 25, 2014 2:19 AM Reply
    Update:
    The lamp died after two weeks use at 230V (germany).
    I wrote, it seems to have the correct voltage to the LEDs, even with the 110V sticker on it, but after two weeks it is dead, and the plastic housing started melting!!!

    It looks like the 18W, that my power meter was showing, is correct, and 13W of power was converted to heat.

    Do not use this lamp with voltages like 220V or more!
    experienced toddler
    Posts(207) | Reviews | Tip post

  • eatatjoes10 Sunday, June 1, 2014 1:54 AM Reply
    I successfully converted the circuit to 230V (german mains).
    I used this online java-applet to find the values:
    http://www.falstad.com/circuit/index.html

    The 3300uF has to be changed to 1400uF (400V), the parallel 47k resistor has to be changed to two paralleled 270k 1/4W (or 1x 270k/0,5W).
    One problem is the 1400uF, as there is not such a thing. I had to solder 1nF + 4x 0,1nF parallel, looks terrible.
    The second problem was to replace the 10 (!) burned LEDs...

    The current to the board now is ~62mA, voltage ~95V, so it's ~5,9W. My meter is not able to do "TrueRMS", but the temperature of the LEDs now is below 60° C.
    Btw.: the applet also shows, that the original circuit works perfect for 110V...

    edit:
    sorry, I mixed "nF" and "uF" (microFarad). I corrected the dimensions...
    experienced toddler
    Posts(207) | Reviews | Tip post

    post edited by eatatjoes10 on 6/6/2014 at 2:33 AM
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