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Eliminating Next Mode Memory in flashlights.

  • ozOzo Top 10 Forum Poster Friday, June 20, 2014 3:56 AM Reply
    Lol, now THAT is funny! A less patient modder may never have found out that it would actually switch off!
    Click........... click..... click.click... dismantle.... where's that *#&! eraser! :D
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  • screenshot Thursday, February 2, 2017 2:06 AM Reply

    im currently trying this out, but dont seem to get it below 6 seconds or so... and i have smeared the whole thing over with a layer of the pencil graphite....

    so imo a bit better instrcutions are needed... because i definitely did not need any magnifying glass and the brown thing was quite easy to spot... plus someone might also wonder if they need to use a pen or a pencil, but it is a pencil you need, not a pen....
    and how thick does the line have to be then...
    (and i ofc did not measure the interval before smearing it... i just found the next mode to be quite annoying, so i wanted to try this...)

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  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Thursday, February 2, 2017 2:39 AM Reply

    It worked fine in all the lights I tried it in. Make sure the pencil point is really sharp so it gets right up against the metal end plates on the capacitor. I never needed more than 2~3 lines across it. 


    I think it was @desolder who suggested something like soldering a resistor across the plates if the pencil trick didn't work? I might be wrong about that though. Wait and see what he says.





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  • sheepish Top 10 Forum Poster Thursday, February 2, 2017 3:54 AM Reply

    i have smeared the whole thing over with a layer of the pencil graphite.


    You should use just one line, not cover the whole board.


    someone might also wonder if they need to use a pen or a pencil, but it is a pencil you need, not a pen.


    I don't think anyone has invented a ballpoint pencil.

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  • gasbag11 Top 10 Forum Poster Thursday, February 2, 2017 4:51 AM Reply

    I just read more of the thread I linked to in the first post. 


    A few people said you might need to clean/scrape the top of the capacitor. It may have a thin coating that the graphite doesn't stick to very well, or it may have some flux on it. There were also a few people who never got it to work. 


    plus someone might also wonder if they need to use a pen or a pencil


    I didn't mention "pen" anywhere, but I did say; "I'd also suggest a really sharp pencil."

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    Ask them.
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  • screenshot Thursday, February 2, 2017 4:51 AM Reply

    well, i got it down to 4 seconds now, but the only thing that "i did" was that i also smeared the sides and then left the ****** just standing on the table and later it just worked with the 4 seconds.

    and when i wiped the stuff off from the cap, it seemed to have a 7 second memory, so i basically got it down 3 seconds(to 4).... but its supposed to be 2? which is also not mentioned in the instructions - aka instructions not clear!

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  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Thursday, February 2, 2017 6:54 AM Reply

    That's the problem with pencil track resistors. They're all over the map. A piggybacked SMD resistor will be much more predictable.


    Here's what was posted in the BLF thread:

    300Kohm -> 4 seconds memory

    220Kohm -> 3 seconds

    68Kohm -> about 2 seconds or less...


    A 10K resistor should give you a second or less of memory.


    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

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  • screenshot Monday, February 20, 2017 4:31 AM Reply

    thx, probably need the 10k one then...

    but would it also be possible to somehow make the flashlight switch itself off when the voltage drops below 3.7? or how can some lamps do this and the others cant?

    and how could i measure the amps of the board? is it possible from the tailcap end too or do i have to put the meter between the live wire?

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  • desolder Top 10 Forum Poster Tuesday, February 21, 2017 6:01 AM Reply

    It should be possible to reprogram the microcontroller to shut off at any voltage you want. All of the bike light drivers have voltage sensing which drops the light into lower modes, then finally shuts off based on battery voltage. Unfortunately this will require reprogramming the microcontroller.


    You can measure the amps at the tailcap. Just connect one lead to the battery negative, and the other lead to an unanodized part of the flashlight case.

    What's up with the scrubbed LED driver IC markings?
    What are they trying to hide?

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  • screenshot Monday, February 27, 2017 7:05 PM Reply

    ok, but is the 10amp fuse missing if the meter just shows 0 and the lamp does not switch on?

    and i wonder if i need to put the right-side wire into the middle hole too or keep it in the right-side hole if the 10amp wire is in the left-side hole?(because it says u can measure 10amps from the left hole, for 10 seconds or smth...)

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