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Help for laptop cells replacement

  • psmaniaco Saturday, December 5, 2009 4:01 AM Reply
    Hi, I have a BATEL80L9 "Lithium Ion" battery, 11,1 V - 7200 mah that actually last me less than 5 min :(

    I have opened the plastic case and there are 9 cells, marked as 18650 and after a quick looks at the circuit seems that are 3 groups of 3 cells in parallel. The 3 groups are than in series. This match the 3,7V and 2400 mah of the cells, so should be right.

    Now I would like to order the replacement cells, but I have notest that there are protected and not protected cells. What I should chose?

    PS: any help for eventuals mistakes I have made in considering the circuit and any help about wath kind of cells buy will be very appreciated :)

    PPS: I'm not english, so if there are some ENGRISH terms...please excuse me :p
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  • cyclist Moderator Saturday, December 5, 2009 8:35 AM Reply
    You want non-protected cells, as i think they add the protection circuit separately after the cells are wired up.
    If all the cells were protected, then all it would take is one faulty circuit to make it a real pain to find where the problem was coming from.

    Ive been planning on doing this myself for sometime, but haven't gotten around to it yet, but i will be using non-protected to do it.

    Good luck, and reply to this post too let people know how easy/hard it is to do.

    I dont know what the best cells to use for it, but i know some are suited more to laptops, but i would imagine any cells would still work.

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    post edited by cyclist on 12/5/2009 at 8:41 AM
  • edap617 Saturday, December 5, 2009 8:52 AM Reply
    I have dismantled a laptop battery pack and the cells are not protrcted. Out of the six cells four are still in good condition. I am using the 4 good cells in my LED flashlights.
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  • psmaniaco Saturday, December 5, 2009 8:54 AM Reply
    thanks for the reply,

    I think to order this sku's cells (5x2 packs) next week and try do do the replacement. After that i promise to post here the results :)

    I have already saw that video on the tube, the problem here, I think, is that this cells haven't the extra metal part on both positive and negative that should make the soldering of the cells easyer.

    As I have sead the this cells look exactily the same of the ones on the original battery, the assembling of the new battery is IMHO the harder part of the process....

    However, I will do a try.....
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  • 300ZXTT Saturday, December 5, 2009 9:06 AM Reply
    I had a the exact same problem with my Toshiba laptop battery. I couldn't use my computer for more than about 15 minutes. I researched replacing the cells in the battery, but found that I could buy one (an entire battery) on the 'Bay for a little cheaper than getting the cells.
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  • 54321 Saturday, December 5, 2009 9:07 AM Reply

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  • psmaniaco Saturday, December 5, 2009 10:49 AM Reply
    the guide is similar to the tube video. I think to have understood basically what to do. Actually the part of soldering the cells scary me a little because the cells can explode but I will be carefull.


    you are lucky, in my country buy a brand ne 9 cells replacement cost €80,00+ shipping!!!

    if it works I will regenerate my battery for ~€20,00
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  • 300ZXTT Saturday, December 5, 2009 1:23 PM Reply
    I guess I was lucky. It was an off brand, no-name battery, but it works great, and cost a few dollars less than it would have to buy the cells I needed to rebuild the old battery.
    Good luck!
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  • psmaniaco Sunday, December 6, 2009 3:37 AM Reply
    Hi, There are updates ....
    I have tried to test the cells, before to buy the new ones, and with my meter (I don't remember the correct name :p ) they gave to me ~3,7 V and a to much mA to be readable on it. The problem is that I can test one cell separately, because are all connected.

    See the picture: hxxp://img121.imageshack.us/i/battery.jpg/

    I must disassemble all the cells before to can test they separately ?

    Is normal that testing all the battery it gave to me 3,7 V and a big ammount of mA (or I have used wrong the meter?)
    Could be possible that is the logical board of the battery broken?
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  • Dilian Sunday, December 6, 2009 6:47 AM Reply
    with my meter (I don't remember the correct name :p ) they gave to me ~3,7 V and a to much mA to be readable on it
    You cannot check how much mAs the batteries can give with just ampermeter. You're basically shorting the battery when doing this.
    3,7V is normal for not fully charged battery. Voltage at full charge is around 4,2V.
    I know that some of the PCBs inside laptop batteries don't like the cells being changed. Please report back your results.

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    post edited by Dilian on 12/6/2009 at 6:48 AM
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