Good efficiency. I measured 81-83% over an input voltage range of 6-8.4V.
Measured output current is virtually constant at 2.35A over the 6-8.4V input voltage range. No markings to indicate the input voltage polarity connections.
Inductor is bulky and oddly positioned. At input voltages below 6V an electrolytic capacitor needs to be put across the input ... Read more
-good driver for a SSC P7 led emitter
-variable input voltage (up to 8.4 volts), meets most of the needs for DIY projects with SSC P7 or MCE emitters -current measured at tailcap is around 1.2 amps at fully charged trustfire 18650s, which means that the current delivered to the emitter is around 2.4 amps, and that is below value stated in the product ... Read more
- easy to re-wire
- good build quality
- can be modified to work up to 16V input
- easily drives 3 XM-L T6's in series - Not 2.8A as many have already said here
- Changing that capacitor over is difficult
- the inductor on the board makes it take up more space than other drivers of the same type.
- It makes a high pitched humming noise when ... Read more
It does most of what its suposed to. I bought it together with an SSC P7, which it is "designed" to work good with. Together with the P7 this provided powerful light, but it could have provided even more. I measured the output to be 2400mA, not 2800. When i connected it to the SSC P7, i got a reading of only 1,3A... Together with 3V, this ... Read more
This driver will power either a single or 2 serial wired Cree XM-L at 2.5 amps. This is the maximum safe level in my opinion, read the Cree data sheet re "Thermal Characteristics"
2 serial wired XM-L T6 will output 1600 lumens at 2.5 amps, and this baby will do it.
Soldering and build quality extremely good. Size matters as they say, and considering ... Read more
does what it says.... sorta 2.4A.... not 2.8 ? I took measurements on 2 different p7s and it was the same. actually fried the driver which came in my copper base p7 by accident (after seeing a similar 2400ma current reading) and used this to replace it. (dont slip while measuring current and give the driver ground :-/) no basic modes... I am one who ... Read more
Simply schematics and simply adjustment. Can work up to 16V, but You must re-solder C1 capacitor (look main picture) to 10mF x 16V You can adjust the current with a resistor near to C1 (marked R10 = 0,1 Ohm on picture) to get more current set lower resistance, to set lower current - resolder this resistor with more Ohms)) If You wish to get more current,... Read more
So far so good , Im over driving this driver by using 3xAA carriers or 11.73v measured at rest . There is voltage sag under use , so that could be very good . Measured at the tail it draws a little over 1A in my 3D SSC P7 Maglite Larger voltage input range would be nice , but so far none really . Other than a larger voltage input range , up to 12v at ... Read more
* Useful device and cheaper than building your own.
* Samll size fits easily into projects as well as flashlights
* low heat generation, although should be heat-sinked.
* wide input voltage tolerance, makes it flexible in many designs Not a full 2.8 amp output from my module. I measured 2.33 Amps at 6.2 volts into a SSC P7 I would like to see clearer ... Read more
i did not notice a difference in brightness in my spider fire p7 when using this driver vs driving the flashlight threw a 2ohm resistor using a 8.4 volt rc car battery. the driver is more efficient than the resistors i was using. (the 20w resistor got very hot) driver does work as is but could be made better by the addition of a low value ceramic capacitor ... Read more
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