The circuit board looks professional. There is some extra solder on some power traces. A 40A fuse is soldered next to the battery port. The over-voltage and under-voltage protection seems to work. I tested with a laboratory power supply connected to the solar panel or batery ports. I did not have...
The circuit board looks professional. There is some extra solder on some power traces. A 40A fuse is soldered next to the battery port. The over-voltage and under-voltage protection seems to work. I tested with a laboratory power supply connected to the solar panel or batery ports. I did not have a real battery for this initial testing. At 7 or 8 volts, the circuit will get seriously confused. Around 10 volts, it will turn off the load. There is some hysteresis built in. Once the battery voltage reaches 13 volts, the load will be switched on again. There are 5 power FETs or something, soldered on the bottom side of the circuit board. The thin metal bottom plate acts as a heat sink for these. There was some electric tape between the bottom plate and the FETs; this might worsen the thermal connection. I am not sure if the heat sink is adequate; time will tell. I measured the idle current to be between 8 and 14 mA. It was never less than the 5mA that was promised in the English/Chinese user documentation. Not a big deal. There is a red 7-segment display connected to a CMOS BCD-to-7-segment driver IC and 3 dual-color status LEDs. The brain is an ATmega microcontroller. Sometimes it was necessary to manually turn on the load by pressing the button under the display. Whether this is good or bad, I do not know. Not an issue for my intended use. There are different modes of operation, related to street light application (turn on the load when the charging stops, for a predefined time). I only tested the mode where the load is supposed to be constantly connected This seems to be good value for the money.
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