If you need a controller that can maintain the temperature of a system to a fraction of a degree, forget this one. Keep in mind that the device doesn't use pid. It's a relay output hence, you get an ON or OFF condition. This is perfect for my project: Monitor the inside temperature of my box for...
If you need a controller that can maintain the temperature of a system to a fraction of a degree, forget this one. Keep in mind that the device doesn't use pid. It's a relay output hence, you get an ON or OFF condition. This is perfect for my project: Monitor the inside temperature of my soundproof box for my air compressor. If the fan goes defect or the intake air filter get overclogged, this controller will indicate to me the temp elevation and if the temperature goes over a preset point, i will use it's relay output to switch off the compressor via a more hefty external relay. Any go-no go project like this one can be fulfilled with this controller. It's well packaged in a box with bubblewrap. Potent instructions sheet is included. Despite the lack of PID, there's a lot of functions:
-Heating/cooling mode (inverted, non-inverted logic)
-Upper and lower limit adjustment
-Delayed start (0-10 mins this can be useful to protect a compressor, for example)
-Slew range adjustable 1-30 degree C (to provide hysteresis to the set point).
-The most important,in my opinion , retention of settings (tested 45 mins) after power cutoff. I compared the controller with two quality thermometers and the was less than 1 degree C of difference. As you can see, i have also first used the unit to monitor the temperature of a 10 w warm white led bought here on DX to see if my heat sink choice was good. The temperature response is quck (just put the probe between your fingers at power up and you will see. The clip on each side for panel mount are handy to quicly install the controller. As you can see, the back panel makes a clean install for the wiring, protecting the connections. Speaking of them, look at the picture with the terminals, it's the tricky part. I've traced the circuit on the PC board because i wasn't shure about the + - connections... as you can see on the pc board picture, the power connections goes to a bridge rectifier so the polarity (at the screw terminals that i named PWR) is of no importance. The documentation is not very helpful about this point. If you use the provided coaxial power connector, then polarity is important. The tip should be positive and sleeve negative. It won't hurt if you reverse but unlike when using the screw terminals, the unit will not power up. This is because the sleeve contact of the connector goes to the negative pin of the bridge rectifier and the tip contact goes to the one of the AC input of the bridge making a clever use of two of the four internal diodes in the bridge to provide reverse polarity protection. Hence this sleeve contact is also common with the left screw on the PWR screw terminal. The normally open contacts are one the terminal marked N.O. The thermistor connects to the last terminal marked TH. Note that if you are using a long shielded cable thermistor, the shield should be connected to the left screw (that i marked "-") of the two screws terminal because this one is internally connected to ground plane of the circuit. I hope i was able to provide some clarifications on the connections so you won't have to look at the pcb's traces yourself and start enjoying using your new controller right away. :-) Pros:
-Bright display (i could still read it with this 1050lumen warm white led right in front of it. Both the display and 10w led are much brighter than what you see on the picture of course.
-Locking function like those used on microwave ovens Cons:
-Lack of details about the connections
-You don't have the tenths of degrees when the controller reads temps below -9.9 degree C because of the most significant digit is used to provide the minus sign. -Too bright for car use (no dimming function) but being panel mount, it wasn't designed for such use in the first place. :-) Bottomline: Highly recommended device. Bought a few more.
It works just as advertised. It can be set to heat or cool. There is an option for delayed switching and an adjustable hysteresis. It's pretty accurate (better than I can measure at least). If needed, you can calibrate it through the menu, but mine was within 1 degree out of the box. The display...
It works just as advertised. It can be set to heat or cool. There is an option for delayed switching and an adjustable hysteresis. It's pretty accurate (better than I can measure at least). If needed, you can calibrate it through the menu, but mine was within 1 degree out of the box. The display is very bright and easy to read. The probe is waterproof. It comes with a manual and schematics. Buttons are clicky-type so you don't push accidentally. It measures with 0.1 degree resolution, but the temperature can only be set in whole degrees. The hysteresis can only be set in whole degrees. As a results, the temperature can only be controlled within one degree. Good enough for most applications, but if you need better accuracy, look elsewhere. The display is always at full brightness. There is no option to dim. Packaging was not the best. Mine had a scratch on the display because it came without a screen protector. No biggie. This is the 12V DC model, meaning the power supply to the module should be 12VDC. It can switch a load of 230VAC up to 10A. It can only heat OR cool, not both at the same time. The module is meant for panel mounting. Maximum panel thickness is about half an inch. This will suit 99% of your temperature controlling needs.
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