Looks as native part of the car - like a "secret" nut of the wheel. Doesn't go out of the wheel, so one can't break it down on a carb or somewhere in a mud. Doesn't light in a day-time but attract attention of others when it becomes dark. Sits solidly on a wheel nut, no chance just to a...
Looks as native part of the car - like a "secret" nut of the wheel. Doesn't go out of the wheel, so one can't break it down on a carb or somewhere in a mud. Doesn't light in a day-time but attract attention of others when it becomes dark. Sits solidly on a wheel nut, no chance just to loose it. Good outside quality and look. Internal construction is a shame on engineers.
Two thin supply elements lay on each other without side isolation. The top one easy makes shortcut curcuit with metallic "bridge" - positive contact and becomes empty very fast.
I've ordered that twice - one piece first time and 2 pcs second time. First time 1 of 4 didn't work, second time none of 8 didn't work - all because of discharged top battery. There is a solution for the problem above.
You should have spare elements CR1220.
Dismount Cap and get the elements out.
Check their state and waste discharged.
Before inserting new batteries cut a thin stripe of scotch, put the batteries together and wrap them with the scotch stripe by side.
You'll get a solid combined battery isolated by side from a shortcut on the "bridge".
I've done so and after a month of use the caps light as new ones. Funny thing for tunning but only for those who know how to use screw driver and soldier and has some basic knowledge in electricity.
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