No heat till 1 Amp power output, seems the claim of high efficiency is true. I don't have a need to use more than 1A at this moment I can charge Vosonic VP-8360 that requires at least 500 mA, MP4 player, Nokia phones. I was also able to power up USB HD that require more power than what the USB 4....
No heat till 1 Amp power output, seems the claim of high efficiency is true. I don't have a need to use more than 1A at this moment I can charge Vosonic VP-8360 that requires at least 500 mA, MP4 player, Nokia phones. I was also able to power up USB HD that require more power than what the USB port can provide Can not charge iPhone 4. iPhone 4 didn't even give any indication that it is charging. multiple cables tried. Those cables works in charging iPhone 4 via the USB ports of notebook. strange behaviour. Not sure why it doesn't work only with iPhone 4 (didn't try with iPhone 3GS). Cable is NOT the issue as they work with USB port connecting to PC / notebooks It is a working solution providing 5V output at least for 500 mA. Just be careful if you want to charge iPhone 4. Not sure why it works with other devices needing 5V
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- compact
- super efficient
- powerful
- stable, clean power - price (?)
- requires 5V on enable Input
- not really 3A (debatable) Bought this just because i was curious if this compact unit could be up to the job of supplying a few 5V devices with sufficient current.
I have a small outside that...
- compact
- super efficient
- powerful
- stable, clean power - price (?)
- requires 5V on enable Input
- not really 3A (debatable) Bought this just because i was curious if this compact unit could be up to the job of supplying a few 5V devices with sufficient current.
I have a small "cubicle" outside that serves as a garden and i don't have electricity there. But i have a car battery in spare :)
Right now i am using a cigarette lighter plug converter that is rated at 650mA and it barely manages to supply a small MP3 player and usb powered speakers. with this one i added a battery charger, a smartphone (Samsung I9000) and a led rgb lightchain (draws rougly 100mA). all round i was drawing about 1.5A. there was no noticeable heat dissipation and the input current was about 650mA. The calculated efficiency is thus about 90%. When the enable-input is floating or set to ground, the unit draws a barely measurable current which makes it ideal for battery powered systems. I am planning to buy more of these to power hard drives in a server that has no 5V lines, powering and charging mobile devices from my spare car battery which is charged by a solar cell when camping/outside and maybe some equipment on my bicycle, that has a dynamo charged battery too :)
in a test environment i was able to draw about 2.5A. beyond that voltage dropped and began to ripple. i was using a large very low esr capacitorwith 440u. Buy this if you need a really small, yet powerful supply. Don't expect the unit to work right away, you need to put a logic level signal (5V) on the EN-Pin to turn it on. this can be easily achieved by a large resistor (10-47k doesn't really matter) and a 5V zener diode. Some may argue about the price but i think it's fair considering i'd probably pay 5 times as much if i bought something similar around here in a shop.
Oh, and don't forget the capacitor on the output. Instead of the suggested 47uF from the datasheet, i'd recommend you not to go any lower than 220uF. What's more important: Use ONLY low or super-low ESR types! "Normal" types will get very hot or even blow up due to the intense ripple current. And if they don't they'd still waste a lot of power impacting your efficiency considerably.
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Compact and simple. Draws practically no current by itself (when not under load). 3A output?! Pretty good price. Virtually no heat dissipation, so no heat sink needed. This module was obviously designed as an SMD (Surface Mounted Device) to be soldered directly to a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), I...
Compact and simple. Draws practically no current by itself (when not under load). 3A output?! Pretty good price. Virtually no heat dissipation, so no heat sink needed. This module was obviously designed as an SMD (Surface Mounted Device) to be soldered directly to a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), so it does not have any pins or connectors. Soldering wires directly to it is somewhat tricky, but not impossible. I stuck the whole thing with the wires soldered to it into a heat shrink tube to protect it. It should be internally overload, short circuit and overheat protected, but I can't confirm that. I got one to rig up a 4 port USB power supply for my car in place of a bulky POS that I currently have. Another one will be used for a powered USB hub, yet another for my motorcycle GPS/cell phone power supply. With so many devices that use 5V DC (practically anything that powers through USB ports, plus a lot more) this thing has many uses!
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No heat till 1 Amp power output, seems the claim of high efficiency is true. I don't have a need to use more than 1A at this moment I can charge Vosonic VP-8360 that requires at least 500 mA, MP4 player, Nokia phones. I was also able to power up USB HD that require more power than what the USB 4.... No heat till 1 Amp power output, seems the claim of high efficiency is true. I don't have a need to use more than 1A at this moment I can charge Vosonic VP-8360 that requires at least 500 mA, MP4 player, Nokia phones. I was also able to power up USB HD that require more power than what the USB port can provide Can not charge iPhone 4. iPhone 4 didn't even give any indication that it is charging. multiple cables tried. Those cables works in charging iPhone 4 via the USB ports of notebook. strange behaviour. Not sure why it doesn't work only with iPhone 4 (didn't try with iPhone 3GS). Cable is NOT the issue as they work with USB port connecting to PC / notebooks It is a working solution providing 5V output at least for 500 mA. Just be careful if you want to charge iPhone 4. Not sure why it works with other devices needing 5V Read more
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- compact - super efficient - powerful - stable, clean power - price (?) - requires 5V on enable Input - not really 3A (debatable) Bought this just because i was curious if this compact unit could be up to the job of supplying a few 5V devices with sufficient current. I have a small outside that... - compact - super efficient - powerful - stable, clean power - price (?) - requires 5V on enable Input - not really 3A (debatable) Bought this just because i was curious if this compact unit could be up to the job of supplying a few 5V devices with sufficient current. I have a small "cubicle" outside that serves as a garden and i don't have electricity there. But i have a car battery in spare :) Right now i am using a cigarette lighter plug converter that is rated at 650mA and it barely manages to supply a small MP3 player and usb powered speakers. with this one i added a battery charger, a smartphone (Samsung I9000) and a led rgb lightchain (draws rougly 100mA). all round i was drawing about 1.5A. there was no noticeable heat dissipation and the input current was about 650mA. The calculated efficiency is thus about 90%. When the enable-input is floating or set to ground, the unit draws a barely measurable current which makes it ideal for battery powered systems. I am planning to buy more of these to power hard drives in a server that has no 5V lines, powering and charging mobile devices from my spare car battery which is charged by a solar cell when camping/outside and maybe some equipment on my bicycle, that has a dynamo charged battery too :) in a test environment i was able to draw about 2.5A. beyond that voltage dropped and began to ripple. i was using a large very low esr capacitorwith 440u. Buy this if you need a really small, yet powerful supply. Don't expect the unit to work right away, you need to put a logic level signal (5V) on the EN-Pin to turn it on. this can be easily achieved by a large resistor (10-47k doesn't really matter) and a 5V zener diode. Some may argue about the price but i think it's fair considering i'd probably pay 5 times as much if i bought something similar around here in a shop. Oh, and don't forget the capacitor on the output. Instead of the suggested 47uF from the datasheet, i'd recommend you not to go any lower than 220uF. What's more important: Use ONLY low or super-low ESR types! "Normal" types will get very hot or even blow up due to the intense ripple current. And if they don't they'd still waste a lot of power impacting your efficiency considerably. Read more
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Compact and simple. Draws practically no current by itself (when not under load). 3A output?! Pretty good price. Virtually no heat dissipation, so no heat sink needed. This module was obviously designed as an SMD (Surface Mounted Device) to be soldered directly to a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), I... Compact and simple. Draws practically no current by itself (when not under load). 3A output?! Pretty good price. Virtually no heat dissipation, so no heat sink needed. This module was obviously designed as an SMD (Surface Mounted Device) to be soldered directly to a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), so it does not have any pins or connectors. Soldering wires directly to it is somewhat tricky, but not impossible. I stuck the whole thing with the wires soldered to it into a heat shrink tube to protect it. It should be internally overload, short circuit and overheat protected, but I can't confirm that. I got one to rig up a 4 port USB power supply for my car in place of a bulky POS that I currently have. Another one will be used for a powered USB hub, yet another for my motorcycle GPS/cell phone power supply. With so many devices that use 5V DC (practically anything that powers through USB ports, plus a lot more) this thing has many uses! Read more
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